Looking Back

Now that we are back home I feel it is appropriate to appraise the holiday and make a comparison with our experience in Spain.   Of one thing there is no doubt, we have had an excellent holiday in France.   But we are certain that we don't wish to return there over the next few years.   So why do we want to go to Spain and stay at Finca Manolo again in 2015?

 

Let's make a comparison and see what we can learn about the matter.  

 

In Spain we arrive after the harvest of cereal crops as borne out by the seemingly endless fields of golden stubble as we drive south.   The only part where we see greenery is in the northern mountains just after we leave Santander.   The mountain scenery there resembles that in Switzerland with the classic chalets and log cabins.   Once we have left this behind on our journey south we encounter the Spanish plains that stretch forever to the horizon.   Here no grass remains green.   All is gold or brown.   When we have driven to Toledo along the motorway we have spotted the famous windmills along the mountain ridge.   They appear in just about every travelogue picture of Spain.   Around them everything is barren and nothing seems able to grow there.

 

Of course, in certain areas we suddenly see mile after mile of olive trees in long lines.   We have remarked that we have never seen so much potential olive oil in the landscape.   A favourite visit is to Zuheros, a village on a steep mountain side.   When you stand up there and look across the wide valley you see many thousands of olive trees and understand why Spain is a big producer of the oil.   In some areas, which are not huge in acreage, we have seen the vines of Montilla and other Spanish wines.   But these are relatively small areas compared to the olive groves.

 

From Finca Manolo in El Romo, a community in Axarquia, we have a 360 degrees view of mountains with huge craggy rock faces.   The view is breath-taking.   Sitting atop one of these mountains is the ancient stronghold of Comares where you could imagine capture by soldiers below would have been impossible.   We have been able to drive along the mountain sides and see the valleys open up below.   In some of the mountain areas we have seen the famous white villages clinging to steep slopes.

 

When we were considering our first holiday there we were told it was rather like Greece.   This is quite true for in Greece the September visitor is no longer treated to the sight of green grass for the summer sun has burned it brown.   So it is with Spain. 

 

Then we have to consider the property where we stay.   Finca Manolo is an old farmhouse that has been restored to the traditional style of such places.   It has an old stone sink which I hate!   But it has a marvellous swimming pool and a hot tub too.   These are things that really help Pauline's spinal stenosis.   The swimming can help reduce her weight as she swims up and down each day.   I would describe the house as quirky.   There is even part of it locked up and out of use!   But we have a love affair with it!

 

This year, in France, we have seen a totally different landscape.   Once we left the motorways and began to use the D roads we saw a new landscape.   North of our base were square mile after square mile of vines growing the grapes that are used to make Cognac and a sweet wine called Pineau.   Another crop is maize and it grows so tall for mile after mile.   Go further south and you see another surprising crop, the sunflower.   In September we witnessed endless fields of sunflowers that had gone black!   They are grown there for their seeds that make sunflower oil.   We used to sit each day when we were based at our temporary home, La Belle Aube, and watch the farmer next door harvesting the sunflowers with a huge machine.   All over the Charente, today, there will be other farmers working like mad to get the sunflowers harvested.   The numbers are in multi millions.

 

On the day we decided to drive to Saint-Emilion in the Bordeaux wine growing area we saw lush dark green vines in endless perfect rows with huge bunches of black grapes hanging below.   Once you are in Bordeaux the sight of the vines takes your breath away.   There are so many individual vineyards with a multitude of names where signs invite you buy direct after a degustation.   The vines can be seen growing right up to the town borders with just a single road separating them from the buildings.

 

Apart from the crops awaiting harvest, France is very green indeed - and beautiful too.   The rivers all seem to have huge lush vegetation and huge trees growing over their banks and there are even beaches too.   The famous tall tree lined avenues abound and beg that you photograph them.   From each bridge there is a beautiful vista of a riverside.   There are old towns with medieval buildings in their centres.   It seems each town or village has immense pride in its heritage and flaunts it all the while.   Then there are the weekly markets held in the main streets of these towns and villages.   You can buy cheese, meat, fish, seafood, tools for home and garden, fashionable tops and tee shirts and even corsets!   These markets are truly viable, unlike those here at home.

 

Compared to home, the motorways of France are very quiet and driving is less stressful.   The French seem to drive considerately too.   The D roads are mostly in good condition and a pleasure to use.   the speed limits on roads other than motorways are less than in the UK.   A country road in Anglesey has a speed limit of 60mph usually whereas in France it is 55mph.   The Spanish motorways are fast and even less used than in France so driving gets to be a real pleasure.   But watch out for the police and their speed traps in Spain!   I know - I was once caught and paid an on-the-spot fine of 150 euros!

 

Finally let's compare the swimming pools.   Finca Manolo wins, hands down!   It is of traditional build with real Roman style steps that Pauline can safely use.   At La Belle Aube the pool is a one-piece affair in what seems to be GRP.   The steps are moulded within the design and the top step is almost impossible for Pauline to use.   Getting out of the pool was quite scary.   I had to place a chair there for her to grab to pull herself up once she had achieved a hands and knees position on the pool side.   Without me pressing down on the chair she would still be there, trying to get up.

 

But there is Hotel Chateau La Roca outside Santander where our journey south in Spain begins.   This has to be mentioned too.  Whilst the staff, in the main, speak no English, they are most welcoming and attentive.   Reyes, the manager, is a wonderful lady, and she goes out of her way to look after us each time we stay there.   We love staying there.   As we prepare to go south we visit the filling station next door and fill up with Spain's cheapest petrol!

 

There is so much more I could say about these two countries but the one that calls us back is Spain.   In earlier years I used to long to visit the Spanish interior and the experience was worth the wait.

Last full day in South West France

Friday was an excellent day for us.   The weather was as good as it had been and we were able to have a laid back time.   It was very warm so we could have our last swims in the pool.   Over the holiday we had amassed over two cases of wine in addition to the special wine bought at the vineyard in St-Emilion.   All was what we had hoped it would be.   But no perfect day could be perfect without a final visit to Aubeterre Sur Dronne.   It thoroughly deserves to be listed in France's prettiest villages.   Pauline again visited a shop selling excellent pottery with vivid colours and we sat outside the Hotel de France for our final drinks.

We agreed that it had truly been an amazing experience and well worth the planning and expenditure.   As it was Friday we decided to stick to our weekly ritual and have fish for dinner washed down with a lovely white wine.   It was simple and delicious.

The next morning we had breakfast and completed loading the car with everything we wanted to take back with us.   Our final chore was to drop off our last empties at the supermarket bottle bank in Chalais.   Pauline drove the first leg which was mainly on D roads through beautiful countryside.   Satnav guided us all the way.   Later in the afternoon I became slightly worried that whilst we had enough petrol to reach St Malo we would be too close to empty.   We would warn any prospective travellers in France that there is a shortage of petrol stations on N roads.   There are plenty of places to enjoy a picnic but very few petrol stations.   In the end we decided that we would leave the N road and make our way to Dinan (not far from St Malo) to look for petrol.   We found a supermarket with a petrol station and filled the tank.

It was too early to turn up at the ferry port at St Malo so we detoured to St Briac a few miles away.   It was not a place we knew but when we got down to the sea front we were thrilled with the view.   There were hundreds of yachts and dinghies on the beaches, amazing rocks, and beautiful promontories.    We sat there for about an hour and enjoyed the fantastic view.   A group of French visitors stopped to ask me to take their photograph and we had a nice chat with them.

At 5.00pm we set off for the ferry port and waited for boarding time.   There was quite a number of classic cars awaiting loading as well as hundreds of UK travellers waiting to sail home.   There was, of course the usual impatient travellers who simply had to walk up and down the parking area and grumble that they had to wait.   Of course, the ferry left on time so the grumbles were pointless.

Once we had located our cabin we headed for the restaurant to get a table.   The meal was great.   We decided to have fish (again!) and celebrated with a bottle of champagne.   It was worth every penny!

Today we awoke an hour or so before reaching Portsmouth and prepared for landfall.   Eventually we got away at 8.30am and drove home in six hours.   Even though we shared the driving we are shattered.   The car is unloaded and the wine now needs stacking.   Everything else can wait!!!

Anyone for Cognac?

As promised, we did go to visit the town that gave its name to some pretty good Brandy.   It was about an hour and a half getting there.   Satnav advised there were congestion problems ahead and diverted us away from the heavy traffic.   What surprised us most about this was a request for us to turn left at one point.   On making the turn we found ourselves on an unmade road consisting of gravel.   I thought of turning round at the first favourable point but by the time one came we were half way down the track.   I drove very slowly on this loose surface and found that once it crossed an intersection we returned to a normal road.

Eventually, we arrived in Cognac.   The town did not over-impress us but there was a lovely river flowing through so we said we would give it a try.   Having passed through the town centre (or centre-ville) we turned back and turned down by the lovely bridge over the river.   There was a large car park which stretched right along the river bank but no spaces.   We turned round and made our way through a series of narrow winding streets in the old town until we were back on the main road.   In the centre was a roundabout and we turned back again.   This time we found a space on the roadside and paid to park there.    Just back along the road we found a café/restaurant and had croquet monsieur for lunch.  

Next we  went back down to the river and found a parking space just outside the Henessey Cognac factory.   Like most French rivers it was in a placid setting with an attractive bridge taking the main road across.    We took some photos and Pauline got in the driving seat and we set off back to La Belle Aube.   We were back at 4.15pm and in a few minutes were in the pool!

Tonight I cooked two steaks and the result was not good.   In France we have not experienced top class beef.   When we come home we shall be able to have Welsh Black Beef - the very best!   Aberdeen Angus - eat your heart out!

Tomorrow will be our last day, and, after a little shopping in Chalais we shall go once more to Aubeterre-Sur-Dronne.   We can sit in the square and have a good lunch, pop down to the River Dronne and watch the languid flow through the trees - what a treat.   We shall, of course complete the day in the pool!

Riberac

About 50 minutes away from us is the small town of Riberac where we planned to do some shopping in a LARGE supermarket.   The idea was to buy some more wine to bring home with us.   We had already covered red wine so it white that we sought.

Setting off proved rather problematic because I could not find Riberac on the satnav.   I found this incredible until I tried a slightly different way of getting it to recognise the name.   I pressed a button called "Tolerant" and found this was how to do it.   It's all to do with the French language.   The normal alphabet on the system doesn't have accented letters and the letter "e" in Riberac has an acute accent over it.   Once we were over this difficulty the route was calculated and we set off to get petrol for the trip.

Having reached the town later we had to search for either of the two large supermarkets there - Intermarche or Leclerc.   We found Leclerc and shopped there.   Their wine section was superb as were their prices.   We came away with some excellent white wine.   Now that we had done the shopping we looked for a restaurant where we could have lunch - result NIL!   Not to worry because Aubeterre was on the way back.   We parked up in the village square and sat down at a table outside the Hotel de France.   Our meal was excellent and I sampled foie gras for the first time.   We had Poisson du Jour for our main course and were not disappointed.   It came with chips which were cooked with a difference that gave them a unique flavour.   Part way through the meal a customer drove off in a splendid SS Jaguar which woke any villagers slumbering just then.

After our meal we came back to base and sat by the pool for the afternoon.   Tomorrow we are driving to the town, Cognac.   Yes, famous for the amazing brandy produced there.   We hope it will be interesting.

The Market we never saw

This morning we drove to Barbezieux to visit the market there.   It was about three quarters of an hour to get there.   On arrival we had to locate the market.   However, we discovered that whichever way we approached it we would have to negotiate a hill with the wheelchair.   Having gone round the town three times we decided to drive to Chalais and buy some wine to bring home with us.

 

However, the drive to Barbezieux was through some lovely countryside - mostly single track roads.   This was no problem for someone living in Anglesey - we have them in plenty!   At one point we came to a village on a hillside that looked beautiful.   We drove through past a very attractive village church.

 

Returning to Chalais we did our shop for wine and delivered it to La Belle Aube before popping along for the umpteenth time to have gallettes in the square at Aubeterre in the sunshine.   Later we drove across the main road and over the bridge to park up for a few minutes by the River Dronne.   The river is the border between Charente and Dordogne.   There is a fairly modern bridge that looks quite pretty and beneath was swimming a middle aged man.   He looked as if he was heading for the sea eventually!   I thought the water would be cold, but he was obviously unaffected by it.

 

It is now 4.00pm French time and we are back at La Belle Aube for a laze in the sun.   Yesterday we bought some sizeable lamb chops and these will be eaten as part of this evening's meal.   I wonder how they will compare with Welsh lamb?

Chalais Market

Today we rose early to visit both the local supermarket and the weekly street market in Chalais.   We parked in the Avenue de la Gare and drifted down the street to see the various stalls.   The first few were selling virtual rubbish but one stall really amused us.   It was selling corsets and girdles - we thought these garments had gone forever!   Further along we found a cheese stall where we bought our favourite French cheese, Tomme.   The stallholder was able to offer about a dozen versions.   We didn't know there was also a soft version of this cheese which we first sampled on our first voyage on the ferry, Pont-Aven.

There were numerous stalls selling clothing, some of which probably first saw life in the Ark!   We stopped to buy a nutmeg grater at a stall selling kitchenware.   We found a deli in the next street where we bought some ham.   There were about four stalls offering many kinds of fish and seafood.   It was easy to see which was the most popular as there was a queue building up rapidly.   Another stall specialised in many different types of olives.   Another offered some interesting furniture whilst another seemed full of well crafted lemon wood objects.   Pauline bought a "secret box" for her jewellery.   One stall was actually a van kitted out as a kitchen where you could buy cooked chicken and other meats as well as chips.

The biggest surprise was a man who had for sale a live rabbit and a piglet!

We went back to the car and parked it in the supermarket car park where we took our empties to the bottle bank and then bought more food and wine.   It is quite breezy today so we might not be too keen on using the swimming pool.   Watch this space!

St-Emilion

Those who know us are aware that we love wine.   Having come to a place only a short drive to the Bordeaux vineyards it was odds on that we would make a visit there.   The nearest appellation area was St-Emilion so that is why we set off yesterday on a pilgrimage.   For many years we have sampled good wine but never had we had the chance for a "degustation" at the vineyard.   We parked above St-Emilion and quickly found a sign sending us to the "caves" or cellars of a wine producer.   This was Maison Galhaud where we saw the great barrels of wine in the ageing process in the darkness.   The only minus point was the guy dressed as a monk, talking to people visiting the caves.   This was tacky.   We ignored him and progressed to the "degustation" or tasting.   There we were welcomed by an old an experienced member of staff who organised our tasting.   We came away, having bought 3 bottles of St-Emilion wine, one of which we were advised to keep for a few years to improve the taste.

We returned to the car and made our way to the bottom of this picturesque town.   We found a parking spot and crossed the road to eat in a local restaurant.   We had Salade des Pecheurs x 2 and it was well worth the visit.   We had water rather than wine as I had already tasted and swallowed some wine in the caves.   After our meal we had a look at the town.   It is absolutely beautiful and full of ancient buildings.   I recommend it for a visit even if you have no interest in wine.

Back to La Belle Aube we drove to finish another day of wall to wall sunshine.   So far the weather has been excellent and we have been able to use the swimming pool.

La Rochelle

On Tuesday we decided to make our way over to La Rochelle on  the west coast of France.   It took a long time to get there and even longer to get back.   Our satnav kept diverting us away from congestion so that we used lesser roads a great deal.

On arrival in the port we followed car park signs till we parked up in an area on the north side of the harbour where there is a nice beach.   We spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to use the new car park ticket machine.   With some help from a French car parker we sorted it.   She really sorted us out and we thanked her for her help.

I unloaded the wheelchair and began pushing Pauline along the sea wall towards one of the famous towers that mark the harbour.   Pauline had to negotiate a flight of steps at one point but she won through.   We headed towards the old port where we found an excellent restaurant, Le Bistrot des Pecheurs.   We got a table and ordered lunch.   Our choice was Moules Mariniere and we have never tasted such a dish.   The mussels were tiny but had a great taste and the chips were perfection itself.

After lunch we wandered round the harbour before going through an interesting narrow street to get back to the car park.

Although I remembered parking up I could not spot our car.   The sun, shining through the trees, made the car look so different I didn't notice it.   Then we began a 3 hour drive back to La Belle Aube.   The day had been sunshine all the way and very successful if you discount the arduous travelling.   This is the downside of travel in France.   Once you revert to D roads the going gets slower.   A & N roads have a speed limit of 130kph and 110kph respectively so you can really move along.   But 90kph (55mph) on the country roads is too slow in most cases.

Having said all this we were glad to have visited La Rochelle where there are ice cream sellers with the most enticing flavours.   We prefer hard ice cream but this soft ice cream was in a league of its own!   The number of flavours is amazing and the style of presentation is exceptional.

The next report is on our visit to St-Emilion.

St Malo to Chalais

This year we decided to visit south west France and booked a property with swimming pool in Sud Charent close to the Dordogne border.
Our ferry was overnight from Portsmouth and we got great help from Brittany ferries staff both in boarding (car next to the lift) and general care.   The evening meal was excellent, the cabin was good and we slept well.
Next day we left the ship and followed satnav onto the main roads of France.   Once clear of the urban area the traffic was light and cruise control was engaged - at the speed limit!   On the major roads there are both service areas and picnic areas, so there were plenty of loos, should that matter.   It felt a long drive and this has been our experience later too.
Eventually, we arrived at Chalais and popped in Lidl (pronounced Leedle in France!) to get enough food and drink to cover the weekend.   Shortly afterwards we arrived at the house and discovered it to be everything we had hoped.   It is completely disabled friendly.   There is so much space to relax in and also organise meals.   Only the washing machine was a challenge.   We shall be the last to use it as a new one will be installed in 2015.
The swimming pool is a one piece version installed in a way that creates a very high last step out.   This has made it almost impossible for Pauline to get out as she cannot get her feet that high.   That is the only downside.   Poolside towels are included with the house which is another benefit.   The master bedroom has an en suite bathroom and the family bathroom is huge and includes a roll top bath.   Both bathrooms are wet rooms and they work better than any wet room I have used.   the showers both have side water jets so you can have the spa effect whilst standing!
In Chalais there are numerous shops, an Intermarche supermarket with fuel station and a B & Q type store too.   There is a patisserie and a newsagent near the supermarket as well as bars with food available.
Our favourite local village is Aubeterre sur Dronne.   It has cobbled streets, an amazing underground church about 1,000 years old, a lovely square and the shops you expect for tourism.   The next blog, hopefully, will be about our trip to La Rochelle.